Blind Assessment: Lindsey Bolger: "One of my favorites of the darker roasts in the cupping, largely owing to an aromatic note that always gets my attention. I describe it as "zatar," a mix of spices (sumac, thyme, marjoram and salt) used in Middle Eastern cooking. An odd pairing with coffee, but at the right roast and with other complementary flavors, it can contribute to a truly distinctive cup" (83). Ken: "Most cups were dominated by sweetly and pleasantly fermented tones, the kind that suggest wine- or fruit-toned chocolate. In other cups, additional smoky, spicy tones edged toward a soapy bitterness" (84)

Notes: Certified organically grown and Fair-Traded. Although traditional Sumatras like this one are technically washed or wet-processed, a series of peculiarities in how they are processed and dried give them their characteristic low-key richness and idiosyncratic, often unpredictable, flavor notes. Flying Goat Coffee is a boutique retail/wholesale roaster located in the wine country of northern California. Visit www.flyinggoatcoffee.com or call 800-675-3599 for more info.

Who Should Drink It: Coffee travelers who prefer the unexpected to the predictable.