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93

Small Eyes Cafe

Sumatra Aceh Gayo Mountain Kenawat Raisin Honey

Roaster Location: Yilan, Taiwan
Coffee Origin: Gayo (also Aceh) growing region, Aceh Province, northern Sumatra, Indonesia
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 51/76
Est. Price: NT $480/8 ounces
Review Date: April 2019
Aroma: 9
Acidity/Structure: 8
Body: 9
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

Deep, rich, pungent. Fresh cantaloupe, tangerine zest, caramelly chocolate, sandalwood, magnolia-like flowers in aroma and cup. Roundly and sweetly brisk in structure; satiny in mouthfeel. Fruit, floral and sandalwood carry into a crisply drying though sweet-toned finish.

Notes

This coffee tied for the third-highest rating in a cupping of coffees from Sumatra for Coffee Review’s April 2019 tasting report. Processed by the atypical (for Sumatra) honey method, in which the skin is removed from the coffee fruit immediately after picking, but the seeds or beans are dried with all or part of the sweet pulp, or fruit flesh, still adhering to them. Small Eyes Café is a small, family-owned coffee shop in Yilan, Taiwan, specializing in artisanally roasted specialty coffee and homemade desserts. Visit https://www.facebook.com/Smalleyescafe for more information.

Bottom Line

An unusual honey-processed coffee from Sumatra: graceful, balanced, quietly original.

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This review originally appeared in the April, 2019 tasting report: Sumatra: Earth, Chocolate and Change

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