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88

Dazbog Coffee

Sulawesi

Roaster Location: Denver, Colorado
Coffee Origin: Toraja (also Kalosi) growing region, southwestern Sulawesi, Indonesia
Roast Level: Very Dark
Agtron: 29/40
Review Date: January 2005
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 7
Body: 7
Flavor: 8

Blind Assessment

Lushly high-toned, remarkably complex aroma: flowers (tea-rose?), temperate fruit (pear perhaps), milk chocolate. Slumps toward a lower-key bittersweet character in the cup with only occasional glimpses of chocolate, but the giddy floral top notes persist. Slightly shallow finish.

Notes

Sulawesi coffee, grown in the mountains at the southwestern-reaching tip of the Indonesian island of Sulawesi (formerly Celebes) near the port of Ujung Pandang (formerly Makassar), typically offers a more extreme version of the traditional Sumatra Mandheling cup, heavier, more pungent, more ambiguous. Dazbog is a specialty coffee company founded by two brothers who immigrated from Saint Petersburg (then Leningrad) in the old Soviet Union. The Dazbog package carries the retro bold red and black geometry of Russian Constructivist design. Visit www.dazbog.com or call 888-932-9264 for more info.

Who Should Drink It

Lighter toned and less heavy than most traditional dark-roasted Sulawesis, but still pungent and complex: Sulawesi lite, but a very good one.

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This review originally appeared in the January, 2005 tasting report: Now More Than Ever: Traditional Coffees of Sumatra and Sulawesi

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