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86

Gevalia

Royal Vinter Kaffe

Roaster Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 53/57
Review Date: December 1997
Aroma: 6
Acidity: 5
Body: 7
Flavor: 7

Blind Assessment

An exceptionally luxuriant cup, from the deep, vibrant bottom to the lush but muted acidity. I particularly admire this coffee's dimension, the way it continues to develop in waves of gentle revelation from aroma through finish. The problem: as the coffee cools the fruit tones turn slightly overripe and gamey. The positive fruit and complexity come from the same place as the suspect gaminess, of course: One of the blend components is probably a small-grower, hand-processed coffee, probably either an Indonesia Sulawesi or Ethiopia.

Notes

An exceptionally luxuriant cup , from the deep, vibrant bottom to the lush but muted acidity. Wonderful dimension, but as it cools, the fruit tones turn slightly overripe. Gevalia's holiday blend. I take it "vinter" is Swedish for winter rather than a misprint wandered over from a wine label.

Who Should Drink It

The holiday factor:This coffee doesn't fit media stereotypes of Sweden at all. Perhaps the winter nights are so long in Sweden that they need something hot and exotic in the cup. Certainly the most complex and dramatic coffee in the cupping, and to my palate one of the best.

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This review originally appeared in the December, 1997 tasting report: Holiday Coffees 1997

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