Blind Assessment: This smoky, dark-roasted coffee pleased Ken and co-taster Willem Boot more in flavor than in body. Aromatics and flavor were "smoky, rich and sweet" (Ken), "dark chocolate and smoky" (Willem). Ken found the body "gritty," however, Willem "oily and heavy." The cup softened but didn't sweeten in milk, where it was "smoky and dry" for Ken with a "butterscotch finish" for Willem. Willem 85, Ken 85.

Notes: Papua New Guinea, which occupies the eastern half of the enormous island of New Guinea, produces some of the world's finest and most distinctive coffees. Quartermaine is a wholesale and retail roaster serving the Washington DC area, and an early East-Coast proponent of Alfred Peet's slow, dark roasting style. Visit www.quartermaine.com or call 301-230-4600 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Lovers of smoky, low-toned, dry espressos.