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86

Atomic Cafe Coffee Roasters

Papua New Guinea

Roaster Location: Beverly, Massachusetts
Coffee Origin: Highlands of Papua New Guinea
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 44/58
Review Date: March 2006
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 7
Body: 8
Flavor: 8
Aftertaste: 7

Blind Assessment

Most cups of this sample were very sweet in aroma and flavor, with soft earth tones (think the odor of freshly fallen, moist leaves that have just begun to compost), and pleasingly round cherry, cocoa and caramel notes. Unfortunately one cup of five was very, very foul tasting, probably owing to a bad bean called a "stinker," so we deducted 4 points from a coffee that otherwise might merit a 90.

Notes

The Atomic Cafe is a coffee house on the North Shore of Massachusetts that began its in-house roasting program in 2005. Visit www.atomicafe.com or call 978-922-0042 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Those for whom risk intensifies pleasure.

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This review originally appeared in the March, 2006 tasting report: Undervalued Beauty: The Coffees of Papua New Guinea

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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