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92

The Roasterie

Panama Esmeralda Special, 2005

Roaster Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Coffee Origin: Boquete growing district, western Panama
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 45/61
Review Date: August 2005
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 8
Body: 7
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 7

Blind Assessment

Superb aroma: For Ken giddily floral with blueberry and cherry notes, for co-cupper Rodger Owen "a beautiful burst of lemon." In the cup crisply bright, intensely floral, sweetly and quietly lemon, then (for Ken) rounding toward an orange-toned chocolate. Slight astringency in the short finish but the floral notes had the last, lingering word in the long.

Notes

The 2004 version of this exceptional coffee attracted a score of 95.6 from a jury of international coffee cuppers at the Best of Panama 2004 Cupping Event, then, at the subsequent auction, set what would appear to be a world record price for a green coffee - $21.00 per pound - paid by a consortium of American specialty roasters led by Roasterie president Danny O'Neill. This crop, like the record-setting one, was produced from trees of the Geisha variety of arabica, a variety with Ethiopian parentage, by Finca Esmeralda owners Price and Daniel Peterson. The Roasterie is a leading, quality-oriented specialty roaster that emphasizes its commitment to "air roasting," a technology utilizing a column of hot air rather than the conventional turning drum to agitate the roasting beans. Visit www.theroasterie.com or call 800-376-0245 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

An exotic choice for those coffee adventurers who travel in linen suits.

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This review originally appeared in the August, 2005 tasting report: Aromatic Neighbors: Current Crop Panamas and Costa Ricas

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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