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92

Stumptown Coffee Roasters

Panama Esmeralda Especial

Roaster Location: Portland, Oregon
Coffee Origin: Boquete growing district, western Panama
Roast Level: Light
Agtron: 61/84
Est. Price: NA
Review Date: October 2005
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 8
Body: 7
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment

Exquisitely delicate aroma suggests a fine Oolong tea, with extravagant floral notes but a distinct (and coffeeish) hint of chocolate. The chocolate strengthens in the cup, with a tartly sweet, lemon-toned acidity. The lemon-chocolate notes outlast a gentle astringency in the long, pleasing finish.

Notes

The 2004 version of this exceptional coffee attracted a score of 95.6 from a jury of international coffee cuppers at the Best of Panama 2004 Cupping Event, then, at the subsequent auction, set what would appear to be a world record price for a green coffee - $21.00 per pound - paid by a consortium of American specialty roasters. The 2005 crop also topped the competition, and like the record-setting lot from the previous year, was produced from trees of the Geisha variety of arabica, a variety with Ethiopian parentage, by Finca Esmeralda owners Price and Daniel Peterson. Under the youthful and enthusiastic leadership of Duane Sorenson, Stumptown has become a leading buyer and supporter of Cup of Excellence coffees. Visit www.stumptowncoffee.com or call 503-230-7797 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Those for whom the finest teas are too thin and the best coffees too heavy.

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This review originally appeared in the October, 2005 tasting report: Not for Beginners: Prize-Winning Latin American Coffees 2005

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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