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93

Lin Jen-Wei’s Black Jar Coffee

Panama Catuai

Roaster Location: Taichung, Taiwan
Coffee Origin: Boquete growing region, western Panama
Roast Level: Light
Agtron: 64/82
Est. Price: NT $1,200/227 grams
Review Date: March 2023
Aroma: 9
Acidity/Structure: 9
Body: 8
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

Balanced, crisply fruit-centered. Dried apricot, lemon verbena, amber, wild honey, cedar in aroma and cup. Brightly sweet-tart with vibrant acidity; crisp, silky mouthfeel. The sweet-toned finish leads with notes of wild honey and amber.

Notes

Produced by Altieri Specialty Coffee, entirely of the Catuaí variety of Arabica, and processed by the anaerobic natural method, in which whole fruit is fermented in tanks with limited oxygen before drying, also in the whole fruit. Lin Jen-Wei’s Black Jar Coffee, a Taiwan-based nano-roaster and café, is named for both the Taiwanese slang phrase “black soy sauce in black jar,” indicating something is difficult to see through, and the literal black jar in which this company stores coffee to protect it from UV light. Roasted by Lin Jen-Wei, the daughter of the owner, who has been roasting for five years (since she was 13!). For more information, visit https://www.facebook.com/BlackJarCoffeeShop?mibextid=LQQJ4d.

Bottom Line

A cleanly fruity, high-toned anaerobic natural Panama Catuaí with an engaging resiny, amber-like throughline.

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