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LATEST REVIEWS

We have published thousands of coffee reviews and espresso reviews since 1997. The reviews below appear in reverse chronological order by review date. Older reviews may no longer accurately reflect current versions of the same coffee. To search for a specific roaster, origin or coffee use the Advanced Search Function.


78

Kokopelli Coffee and Tea

Espresso

Review Date: Jan 1999

Restrained but elegant nose; in the demitasse sharply rich but lacks sweetness. The aftertaste is distinctly astringent. Masters milk nicely, but even in dairy not quite enough sweetness and nuance for my palate.

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78

City Bean Coffee

Brazil FVA Natural Dry

Review Date: Jan 1999

Either an over-aggressive roast or a drying-related defect in the green coffee deadens a promising profile. Satisfying body and richness, but little sweetness or nuance.

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78

Ink Coffee

Brazilian

Review Date: Jan 1999

A dullness, perhaps a shadow defect from rain-interrupted drying, shadows an otherwise splendidly sweet profile. The sweetness, enlivened by spice and chocolate, almost sneaks out from under the hardness at the finish, but never quite makes it. Too bad.

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73

Coffee Masters

Brazil Bourbon Santos

Review Date: Jan 1999

Very sharp, carbony cup, with little richness or sweetness. Both aroma and body seem burned off the coffee by the rather aggressive roast. I also tried this coffee as espresso. In the demitasse it remained sharp, but softened and sweetened a bit in milk.

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70

Armeno Coffee

Brazil Fazenda Vista Alegre

Review Date: Jan 1999

A hard, nasty ferment mars an otherwise sweetly rich profile.

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87

Armeno Coffee

Brazil Bourbon Santos

Review Date: Jan 1999

Displays a rich, deeply matrixed acidity reminiscent of the best Sumatras. Although the cup is not quite as sweet and roundly ingratiating at first sip as some others in the cupping, the acidity sustains power as the cup cools, hence the somewhat higher rating for this coffee compared to those with comparable sweetness and body. A slight edginess to the acidity may indicate a scattering of cherries that were close to ferment as the coffee dried, but this shadow fault, if present at all, is so faint that it strikes me as a quibble. A fine coffee well-roasted.

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86

First Colony Coffee & Tea

Brazil Fancy Bourbon Santos

Review Date: Jan 1999

Rich with a low-toned, vibrant acidity. The body is creamily smooth, though a touch lighter than the heaviest-bodiedBrazils in the cupping. Here the sweet spice tones characteristic of natural Brazils are buoyant and floral, almost Yirgacheffe-like in their perfumes. The floral tones linger sweetly in the aftertaste.

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85

North Pole Coffee Roasters

North Pole Blend

Review Date: Dec 1998

A solid American-style breakfast profile: Dry and acidy but balanced, complete, closing on rich. Everything is up front, however: limited dimension and development.

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84

Caffe Appassionato

Santa’s Choice

Review Date: Dec 1998

A tribute to dark-roast fruit character. In the nose deep with prune and sweet pipe-tobacco tones. In the cup the fruit comes up dry and pungent before softening and sweetening toward the finish.

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80

Starbucks Coffee

Decaffeinated Christmas Blend

Review Date: Dec 1998

A clean, direct dark-roast profile. The dominant pungency is free of carbon and dances rather lightly on the palate, with some spicy overtones and space for them to echo.

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80

Allegro Coffee Roasters

Celebration Caffe

Review Date: Dec 1998

Another holiday coffee distinguished by a dark-roasted, pungent heart. The pungency dominates, but reads as rich and resilient, and is complicated by an unusual taste tickle. I want to call it cedar, but a publicist might call it spice. It's a pleasant holiday-themed sensation.

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79

Kauai Coffee Company

Estate Reserve Typica

Review Date: Dec 1998

A very comfortable, low-key cup. The dark-roast pungency is pronounced but easy-going. Just enough richness to satisfy. Not much nuance but some sweet echoes.

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79

Green Mountain Coffee Roasters

Holiday Blend

Review Date: Dec 1998

A compromise coffee between dark and medium roast, pleasantly low-key, but not much range or dimension.

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73

North Pole Coffee Roasters

Santa’s Blend

Review Date: Dec 1998

Dominated by a dry, unforgiving pungency. The center of the coffee has little resilience or shimmer. A touch of hard, rubbery taste surfaces in the finish. I have to assume that something went wrong with the roast.

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83

Kauai Coffee Company

Estate Reserve Peaberry, 1997

Review Date: Dec 1998

Considerable dry-chocolate intrigue behind the dark-roast pungency. The aroma is extraordinary: light and buoyant with sweet vanilla-chocolate notes and a hint of nut. Settles down in the cup, where the pungency turns the chocolate tones pleasantly dry and smoky.

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78

Starbucks Coffee

Christmas Blend

Review Date: Dec 1998

A wonderful nose, full of bittersweet chocolate and deep vanilla tones, but disappointing in the cup: a clean, dry, but rather hard pungency bullies nuance into submission. A hint of carbon, little sweetness.

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78

Caribou Coffee

Reindeer Blend

Review Date: Dec 1998

A stark pungency dominates: Sweet and rich in the nose, but hardens uncomfortably in the cup, where the sharpness is softened by the barest hint of shadow sweetness. Suggestions of nut in the aroma and dry fruit in the cup barely escape from under the hand of the roast.

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93

Green Mountain Coffee

Kona Mountain Estate

Review Date: Dec 1998

An elegant, extraordinary tribute to the pleasures of the sensation coffee people call acidity. Here the acidity is robustly dry yet alive with a full, fragrant sweetness. Everything dances and rings in this coffee.

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89

Allegro Coffee Roasters

Nicaraguan Segovia Organic

Review Date: Nov 1998

Extraordinary aroma: powerfully sweet, enveloping and complex, with tremendous dimension. Almost as impressive in the cup: Full-toned acidity softened by peach or prune, resonant and richly dimensioned, with a sweet, full, almost sugary finish complicated by hints of dry chocolate or tobacco.

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85

Montana Coffee Traders

Organic Dominican Republic

Review Date: Nov 1998

Alive with dry nuance and surprise: pruny fruit, crisp chocolate, sweetening slightly toward the finish. As the cup cools the chocolate sharpens a bit toward tobacco and herb. Long, richly dry aftertaste.

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