Blind Assessment: The center of the profile is satisfyingly round and full but rather opaque, without lift or brightness. The lone complication is a hint of pungent, pruny fruitiness that turns slightly hard as the cup cools. The impassive profile reveals nuance only as it fades rather richly in the aftertaste.

Notes: A typical, full-bodied, solid centered Sumatra with good development of weight and power, finishing with reticent pruny, sweet-pungent tones. As it cools, the herby, earthy tones emerge, with a hint of hardness. Produced by a recently organized cooperative of about a hundred farmers, this coffee has the weight but not the nuance of the best traditional Sumatras. If the project can sustain itself, the quality of its coffee undoubtedly will improve. Green Mountai

Who Should Drink It: Lovers of the full, resonant Sumatra profile who are willing to forgo a little resonance to get the fullness. And if you buy a Sumatra that is a little short of perfect, which almost all Sumatras are, why not buy one that gives something back to the landscape and the people?