Blind Assessment: Evaluated as a regular brewed coffee rather than as espresso. In the aroma roundly and deeply roasty: cedar, cardamom, flowers. In the cup crisply pungent, smooth, simple, with a roast-influenced fruit that with imagination reads as semi-sweet chocolate. Cleanly rich finish.

Notes: The bag reads "100% Organic Fair Trade Guaranteed!" Although the fine print includes information on organic certification, it would appear that this coffee is not certified Fair Trade by TransFair USA, the sole American certifier for the Fairtrade Labeling Organizations International (FLO), instead bearing the seal of the Fair Trade Federation, a membership (rather than certifying) organization devoted to "providing fair wages and good employment opportunities to economically disadvantaged artisans and farmers worldwide" (from the website www.fairtradefederation.org). Dean's Beans is a small batch wholesale roaster devoted to organic and sustainable principles and small-holder support. Visit www.deansbeans.com or call 800-325-3008 for more information.

Who Should Drink It : Dark-roast-loving social idealists who can tolerate some ambiguity in credentialing.