Flying Goat Coffee
Organic Fair Trade Ethiopian Harrar
|Harrar growing region, eastern Ethiopia
Dry fragrance: lemon, flowers and freshly laundered linen. In the hot aroma dark molasses and licorice on the pour, rich ripe fruit and milk chocolate in the break. While the floral, citrus and deep-red fruit notes remain intact from first sip through last (a neat trick in such a dark roast) these flavors assemble themselves differently with each taste as the cup cools. Complex and beautifully structured cup (Lindsey Bolger).
Certified organically grown and certified Fair Trade, meaning small-holding farmers have been paid a "fair" or economically sustainable price for this coffee. Harrar, unlike the more elegant and high-toned wet-processed coffees of southern Ethiopia (Yirgacheffe, Sidamo), is a dry-processed coffee, meaning the coffee cherries are simply picked and put out in the sun to dry, fruit and all. Such simple dry processing emphasizes bold fruit notes. In some cases the fruit character can be overly wild and fermented. Here, however, the wild fruit character has been tamed just enough to capture the essence of the origin while demonstrating surprising uniformity from cup to cup. Flying Goat is a quality-oriented small-batch wholesale/retail roaster located in northern California's wine country. Visit
Who Should Drink It
Those who sip, rather than gulp, life's pleasures. A coffee deserving of contemplation.
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This review originally appeared in the September, 2004 tasting report: The Fair-Trade Cup: Quality and Controversy