Blind Assessment: Impressive complexity: high, sweet notes, caramel in the middle, crisp, edge-of-burned tones, a touch of floral acidity. Excellent body. Pungent, bitter tones propose sugar for the demitasse, but give this blend tremendous staying power in milk, where it blossoms with little loss of range or complexity.

Notes: Impressive complexity: high, sweet notes, caramel in the middle, crisp, edge-of-burned tones, a touch of floral acidity. Excellent body. La Colombe Torrefaction is a small-batch roaster that promotes its coffees with testimonials from celebrity and near-celebrity chefs. Happily, this moderately roasted espresso blend lives up to its hype.

Who Should Drink It : A fine, versatile American espresso: intriguing in the small cup and substantial in milk. Forgiving in the brewing.