Kaanapali Estate Coffee
Natural Moka – Green
|Roaster Location:||Maui, Hawaii|
|Review Date:||April 1998|
Blind Assessment: To say this coffee has an atypical profile for a Hawaii coffee is an understatement. Comparing it to the other coffees in the cupping is worse than comparing apples and oranges - more like comparing apples and cocker spaniels. The Kaanapali dry-process Moka is, as one panelist called it, a "Yemen wannabe." The trees that produced it are Yemen varietals, and the coffee has been processed in the simple, put-it-out-in-the-sun-to-dry approach used in Yemen and parts of Ethiopia. Which means that, like a Yemen or dry-processed Ethiopia, it is fruity, winy, complex, with a disturbingly lush, overripe aftertaste that lovers of these coffees call gamy or wild and people who don't like Yemen or dry-processed Ethiopia coffees call fermented.Five panelists labeled this coffee fermented and dismissed it with very low scores; three recognized the Yemen/Ethiopia characteristics and treated it like a middle-of-the-road dry-processed Yemen/Ethiopia coffee, giving it scores in the high seventies. Four didn't call it anything but gave it low scores.If this coffee had been presented to the panel in the context of similar dry-processed coffees from Yemen or Ethiopia I don't think it would have provoked quite the same level of criticism. For this reason we're not publishing its scores. However, it did not fare well in the context of this particular cupping.
Notes: This coffee was not rated due to the panel's criticism of this "Yemen" varietal coffee in the Hawaiian context. (see review) Originally reviewed by a panel as a green coffee. Kaanapali Estate markets four botanical varieties of coffea arabica. Moka, a very old variety originating in Yemen, produces very small, round beans. This particular Moka consists of coffee from fruit that was picked at the purple, just-past ripe stage
This review originally appeared in the April, 1998 tasting report: Hawaiian Coffees