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95

Rusty's Hawaiian

Maui Mokka Peaberry

Roaster Location: Pahala, Hawaii
Coffee Origin: Kaanapali district, near Lahaina, West Maui, Hawaii
Roast Level: Medium-Dark
Agtron: 42/55
Est. Price: $24.00/8 ounces
Review Date: June 2012
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 9
Body: 9
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment

Striking, original profile. Rich, rose-like flowers, blackberry, candied citrus, dark chocolate in aroma and cup. Soft, finely balanced acidity; very smooth, silky mouthfeel. Flavor saturates a crisply sweet, resonant finish.

Notes

Mokka (also spelled Moka and Mocca) is a famous variety of Arabica that reached Kaanapali, Hawaii from Brazil. It almost certainly must have originated in Yemen, however, where varieties identical in bean appearance and cup are known as Ismaili as well as by other local names. This sample consists entirely of peaberries, a kind of bean that results when the coffee fruit develops only a single, oval bean rather than the usual pair of flat-sided beans. Peaberries produce a somewhat different (often better) cup than normal beans from the same crop, from which they may or may not be separated during grading. This coffee was selected by Miguel Meza and Lorie Obra for her Rusty’s Hawaiian brand. Visit www.rustyshawaiian.com or call 808-928-8916 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Aficionados interested in sampling a particularly pure version of the famous Mocca profile. Anyone willing to pay more for an exciting, original yet elegantly balanced coffee.

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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