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94

Victrola Coffee Roasters

Lintong Sumatra Dolok Sangul

Roaster Location: Seattle, Washington
Coffee Origin: Lintong growing region, northern Sumatra, Indonesia.
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 54/77
Est. Price: $16.50/12 ounces
Review Date: June 2013
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 9
Body: 8
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment: Rich, pungently fruit-toned. Ripe grape and apricot, moist pipe tobacco, molasses, roasted cocoa nib in aroma and cup. Lush, juicy acidity; syrupy mouthfeel. Crisp, deeply flavor-saturated finish.

Notes: This coffee was sourced entirely from Dolok Sangul, a village south of Lake Toba. Coffees from the northern part of the Indonesian island of Sumatra are admired for their complex earth and fruit notes that appear to result largely from unorthodox fruit removal and drying practices called “wet hulling.” This is a particularly refined example of the type. Victrola is a small-batch, hands-on roaster with a passionate commitment to quality and distinctiveness. Visit www.victrolacoffee.com or call 206-624-1725 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Those who enjoy the classic Sumatra balance between lush fruit and deeper, pungent notes, in this case the moist, spicy earthiness of fresh pipe tobacco.

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This review originally appeared in the June, 2013 tasting report: Better and Better: Sumatras 2013

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