Kona – Green
|Roaster Location:||Kona, Hawaii|
|Review Date:||April 1998|
The clear winner in this cupping, as it was in the 1997 Kona Coffee Cultural Festival Cupping Competition. The reason: it clearly transcends the pleasantly mellow limits of the classic Kona profile. It displayed power, complexity, and an uncompromising, authoritative acidity, laid right on top of the usual soft, brightly sweet virtues of a typical Kona. Even the Kona-bashers on the panel liked this coffee. (Well, all but one.) Nobody raved, but there were lots of approving noises: "excellent," "very interesting, very clean on the palate," "nice depth." However, this excellent coffee might be too authoritative for those who like to slip into the softness of a more typical Kona. Lovers of Kona's sweeter, gentler side may prefer one of the less acidy profiles like the Guyer, Hamasaki, or Bayview Farms mill selections. The rather powerful acidity of this coffee casts doubt on the specialty coffee truism that only high growing altitudes (usually defined as over 4,000 feet) can produce solidly acidy coffees. The average elevation of the Fitzgerald Estate is around 1,600 feet. Apparently microclimate can mimic the conditions that, at higher altitudes, produce acidy profiles.
This excellent coffee transcends the limits of the classic, soft Kona profile, displaying power, complexity and an uncompromising, authoritative acidity. Originally reviewed by a panel as a green coffee. Like all Konas, produced from trees of the Guatemala strain of typica. Fitzgerald is located above the town of Honaunau. Wet-milled at the farm.
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This review originally appeared in the April, 1998 tasting report: Hawaiian Coffees