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91

Hula Daddy

Kona Fancy Natural

Hula Daddy Kona Coffee Logo
Roaster Location: Holualoa, Hawaii
Coffee Origin: Holualoa, North Kona growing district, Hawaii.
Roast Level: Light
Agtron: 59/94
Est. Price: $79.95 / 16 oz.
Review Date: March 2010
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

Complications of fruit ferment are rich and complex in both aroma and cup: Deep, sweet, chocolaty molasses and moist pipe tobacco, a round apricot-like fruit, and a powerful suggestion of dusk flowers extend from aroma through a deeply flavor-saturated finish. The richness fades a bit as the cup cools, revealing a shadow composty edge to the ferment, but the main impression of opulence persists.

Notes

This coffee is a dry-processed or "natural" coffee, meaning the beans were dried inside the fruit rather than after the fruit is removed, as is the case with wet-processed or "washed" coffees. Hula Daddy is a boutique coffee farm at the 1,400 foot level of the Mount Hualalai volcano near the northern end of the Kona growing district, five minutes above the town of Kailua-Kona. This coffee was selected and processed under the supervision of Miguel Meza, one of specialty coffee's younger visionaries. Visit www.huladaddy.com or call 888-553-2339 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

A good starter coffee for those with dollars to spare who have not yet experimented with the lush, sweet-fermented, dried-in-the-fruit coffees most closely associated with Ethiopia but now emerging from places as diverse as Kona and Costa Rica.

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This review originally appeared in the March, 2010 tasting report: Island Coffees: Hawaii and the Caribbean

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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