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92

Coava Coffee Roasters

Kilenso Sidama Natural

Roaster Location: Portland, Oregon
Coffee Origin: Sidama growing region, southern Ethiopia.
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 55/70
Est. Price: $13.00/250 grams (8.8 oz.)
Review Date: May 2011
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

Frank but brilliant in its complex fermented fruit character: cocoa, dusk flowers, butter, brandy, lemon all layer engagingly in aroma and cup. The sweet, exuberant ferment seems to turn the mouthfeel almost effervescent. Sweetness and flavor outlast a hint of astringency in the long finish.

Notes

Produced by the Kilenso Mokonissa Cooperative in the Sidama (also Sidamo) growing region, this Ethiopian coffee is a dry- or "natural-" processed coffee, meaning the beans were dried inside the fruit rather than after the fruit was removed, as is the case with wet-processed or "washed" coffees. This coffee won second place at this year's Ethiopia Taste of Harvest Competition. Coava is a Portland based coffee roaster that aims to provide quality coffee and the knowledge needed to properly brew that coffee. Visit www.coavacoffee.com or call 503-894-8134 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Ferment-toned fruit with grandeur and without shame.

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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