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92

Victrola Coffee Roasters

Kenya Thika Chania Estate Natural Process

Roaster Location: Seattle, Washington
Coffee Origin: Thika growing region, central Kenya.
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 46/63
Est. Price: $15.50/8 ounces
Review Date: September 2011
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 8
Body: 9
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 7

Blind Assessment

Rich, brandy-like fruit dominates the profile: cherry, blueberry, cocoaish dark chocolate in aroma and cup. Round, fruit-influenced acidity; syrupy mouthfeel. Flavor carries richly into the finish, where a very slight over-ripe note emerges as the cup cools.

Notes

"Natural" process means the beans were dried inside the fruit rather than after removal of the fruit. This coffee consists entirely of the heirloom “French Missionary” Bourbon variety trees grown by the Harries family on the Chania Estate. Victrola is a small-batch, hands-on roaster with a passionate commitment to quality and distinctiveness. Visit www.victrolacoffee.com or call 206-624-1725 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Lovers of big, fruity red table wines and those coffee drinkers who already know they enjoy the lushly fruit- and brandy-toned character of a lightly fermented dried-in-the-fruit “natural” coffee.

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This review originally appeared in the September, 2011 tasting report: Still Tops: Coffees of Kenya

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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Shop for top-rated coffees at GoCoffeeGo

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