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92

Après Coffee

Kenya AA Lenana

Roaster Location: Lancaster, Pennsylvania
Coffee Origin: South-central Kenya
Roast Level: Medium-Dark
Agtron: 42/53
Review Date: June 2009
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 8
Body: 7
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

Rich, very intense aroma: dark chocolate, aromatic wood, nut, hints of citrus: orange, tangerine. The cup is influenced by a moderately dark roast, which nicely rounds acidity and turns the celebrated Kenya dry berry notes toward a crisply sweet cocoa or dark chocolate, with a continued shimmer of citrus. The berry-toned chocolate carries into a simple, rich finish. The only limitation of this graceful coffee is a lean, almost thin mouthfeel, though that could be admired as another expression of its complex delicacy.

Notes

Despite stresses brought on by social unrest, charges of corruption and a confused transition toward an open market, the famed Kenya coffee auction system and its participating cooperatives continue to produce some of the world's most elegant and distinctive coffees. AA is the highest grade of Kenya coffee based on bean size. Après is a seller of gourmet teas, coffee and chocolate presented in impressively distinctive packaging at reasonable prices. Visit www.aprescafe.com or call 877-777-3451 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Those who prefer understated grace to robust assertion.

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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