92

Flying Goat Coffee

Kenya AA Gatina

Location: Healdsburg, California

Origin: South-central Kenya

Roast: Medium-Light

Est. Price:

Review Date: July 2009

Agtron: 53/73

Aroma: 9

Acidity: 8

Body: 8

Flavor: 8

Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment:

Co-cupper Andy Newbom (92) and Ken (91) both found ways to admire this Kenya. Andy’s descriptors circle enthusiastically around flowers and citrus; “gardenia and lemon-blossom” in the aroma, “pears – orange butter and complex mild citrus” together with “gardenia and rose” in the cup. Ken reported parallel, if more generalized, descriptors of black currant, blackberry and hints of lemon, aromatic wood and night flowers. The mouthfeel was “fat and silky” for Ken, “creamy and fruity” for Andy. Ken was slightly disappointed by what he felt was a slight astringent imbalance in the finish, which for Andy was “long … smooth and lingered romantically.”

Notes:

Despite stresses brought on by social unrest, charges of corruption and a confused transition toward an open market, the famed Kenya coffee auction system and its participating cooperatives continue to produce some of the world’s most elegant and distinctive coffees. AA is the highest grade of Kenya coffee based on bean size. This coffee was produced from trees of famous SL-28 variety, responsible for most of Kenya’s finest coffees. SL-28 is derived from a single tree that reflects both the heritage of the original Bourbon-influenced “French Mission” variety together with Ethiopian and possibly Sudanese influences. Flying Goat Coffee is a leading boutique retail/wholesale roaster located in the wine country of northern California. Visit www.flyinggoatcoffee.com or call 800-675-3599 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: This coffee is "too sexy to just be friends," according to co-cupper Andy Newbom. Also presumably too good to just read about.


This review originally appeared in the July, 2009 tasting report: Botany and the Cup: The Bourbon Conundrum

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