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92

Flying Goat Coffee

Kenya AA Gatina

Roaster Location: Healdsburg, California
Coffee Origin: South-central Kenya
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 53/73
Review Date: July 2009
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 8
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

Co-cupper Andy Newbom (92) and Ken (91) both found ways to admire this Kenya. Andy's descriptors circle enthusiastically around flowers and citrus; "gardenia and lemon-blossom" in the aroma, "pears - orange butter and complex mild citrus" together with "gardenia and rose" in the cup. Ken reported parallel, if more generalized, descriptors of black currant, blackberry and hints of lemon, aromatic wood and night flowers. The mouthfeel was "fat and silky" for Ken, "creamy and fruity" for Andy. Ken was slightly disappointed by what he felt was a slight astringent imbalance in the finish, which for Andy was "long ... smooth and lingered romantically."

Notes

Despite stresses brought on by social unrest, charges of corruption and a confused transition toward an open market, the famed Kenya coffee auction system and its participating cooperatives continue to produce some of the world's most elegant and distinctive coffees. AA is the highest grade of Kenya coffee based on bean size. This coffee was produced from trees of famous SL-28 variety, responsible for most of Kenya's finest coffees. SL-28 is derived from a single tree that reflects both the heritage of the original Bourbon-influenced "French Mission" variety together with Ethiopian and possibly Sudanese influences. Flying Goat Coffee is a leading boutique retail/wholesale roaster located in the wine country of northern California. Visit www.flyinggoatcoffee.com or call 800-675-3599 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

This coffee is "too sexy to just be friends," according to co-cupper Andy Newbom. Also presumably too good to just read about.

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This review originally appeared in the July, 2009 tasting report: Botany and the Cup: The Bourbon Conundrum

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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