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88

Peerless Coffee and Tea

Kenya AA Dark

Roaster Location: Oakland, California
Coffee Origin: South-central Kenya.
Roast Level: Very Dark
Agtron: 29/31
Est. Price: $13.45/16 ounces
Review Date: July 2011
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 7
Body: 8
Flavor: 8
Aftertaste: 7

Blind Assessment

Crisp, gently charred sweetness (think campfire marshmallow) in aroma and cup, with hints of dark chocolate, vanilla and a shimmer of bright, surprising lemon. Roast-muted acidity, light but silky mouthfeel. Some chocolaty sweetness persists to lighten a rather roast-heavy finish.

Notes

Despite grower discontent and sporadic social disorder, Kenya continues to produce some of the world's most elegant and distinctive coffees. Peerless Coffee was founded in 1924 as a classic storefront roaster in Oakland. It has grown in size and presence since, but remains directly family owned and operated. Visit www.peerlesscoffee.com or call 800-235-3237 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Dark-roast fans who don’t need pronounced bitterness to convince them they’re drinking coffee. Displays solid dark-roast character while retaining sweetness and some Kenya complexity.

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This review originally appeared in the July, 2011 tasting report: Quest for an Everyday Coffee: Macro-Lots

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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