Hawaiian Kona Extra Fancy
|Roaster Location:||Northborough, Massachusetts|
|Review Date:||May 1999|
A dry, powerful, authoritative cup, rich but not sweet. The ringing energy of the acidity and the substantial body are close to monumental, though lovers of delicacy and nuance may be disappointed.
This "Extra Fancy" from Bayview Farms mill is one of the best Konas of the 1997-98 harvest. Dry and acidy, but the acidity is held inside a deep, resonant matrix and complicated by richly wine-tinged fruit tones. Extra Fancy is the highest grade of Kona coffee based on bean size. Larger beans often display superior cup quality because they typically come from the ripest and healthiest fruit. From the 1998/99 crop.
Who Should Drink It
Those (to use a gendered analogy) who prefer Brooks Brothers to Italian designers.
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This review originally appeared in the May, 1999 tasting report: A Dozen Keepers