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85

Stumptown Coffee Roasters

Hair Bender Espresso

Roaster Location: Portland, Oregon
Coffee Origin: Not disclosed
Roast Level: Medium-Dark
Agtron: 40/49
Est. Price: NA
Review Date: February 2004
Aroma: 8
Body: 6
Flavor: 7
Aftertaste: 7
With Milk: 7

Blind Assessment

Ken and Willem were eight points apart on this one. Ken liked the aromatic excitement of the "floral and fruit notes with complex smoky undertones" that he followed with pleasure from aroma through finish to milk. Although he found the small cup a bit sharp and thin-bodied, he forgave all in return for the floral and fruit complexity. (89) Willem, on the other hand, tasted nothing but imbalance and too much acidity: "Somewhat dull aroma with minor earthy notes" and in the small cup "mildly sharp and some uncontrolled acidity." He was a bit more forgiving with performance in milk: "sweet, bright, with caramel aftertaste." (81)

Notes

Stumptown Coffee is a small-batch premium roasting company that wholesales its coffees as well as serves them in French press format in its three Portland cafes. Visit www.stumptowncoffee.com or call 503-230-7797 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Those who, like Ken, enjoy a romantically aromatic respite from balance.

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This review originally appeared in the February, 2004 tasting report: The Aficionado's Pacific Northwest Espressos

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