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96

Cafe de Impression

Guatemala Pandora Pacamara Medium-Light Roast

Roaster Location: Kaohsiung City, Taiwan
Coffee Origin: Huehuetenango growing region, northwestern Guatemala.
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 52/63
Est. Price: $25.00/8 ounces
Review Date: December 2011
Aroma: 10
Acidity: 9
Body: 8
Flavor: 10
Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment

Impressively complex in both structure (sweet, bitter, savory) and aromatics. Pungently rich aroma: black currant, grapefruit, cedar, roses. All carry into the cup, where the pungent, cedary citrus notes are enveloped in almost sugary sweetness. Gently bright acidity; the mouthfeel is lightish in weight but impressively silky in texture. Flavor, particularly sweet citrus, carries deeply into the finish.

Notes

Pandora is an auction lot grown on El Injerto, one of Guatemala’s most celebrated farms. This lot is comprised entirely of the Pacamara variety, a cross between the giant-beaned Maragogipe variety and Pacas, a selection of the heirloom Bourbon. By Specialty Coffee Association of America standards, this is not a medium-light roast, but rather a classic medium roast. Located in Southern Taiwan, Café de Impression is a micro roastery owned by Jeff Chang, who also specializes in importing green coffee into Taiwan. Café de Impression’s Coffees are available exclusively online. Visit http://cafedeimpression.blogspot.com for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Unusual and distinctive profile, with the savory/sweet complexity found in the best of any given year’s Pacamara. Should please both coffee adventurers and purists. Very sensitively roasted.

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This review originally appeared in the December, 2011 tasting report: Single-Variety Coffees: Aficionado Fun

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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