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95

Fumi Coffee

Guatemala Pacamara Natural

Roaster Location: Hsinchu, Taiwan
Coffee Origin: Acatenango growing region, Guatemala
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 57/77
Est. Price: NT $1450/8 ounces
Review Date: November 2018
Aroma: 9
Acidity/Structure: 9
Body: 9
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment

Complex, sweetly tart, spice-toned. Peach, fine musk, toffee, macadamia nut, roasted cacao nib in aroma and cup. Sweet-tart structure with vibrant, juicy acidity; plush, syrupy mouthfeel. The elegant, lingering finish centers around notes of peach, toffee and fine musk, all cocoa-toned.

Notes

This coffee earned the highest rating in a cupping of coffees from big-bean varieties for Coffee Review’s November 2018 tasting report. Produced at Finca La Hermosa entirely of the Pacamara variety of Arabica. The Pacamara is a big-beaned hybrid of the Bourbon-related Pacas and the huge-beaned Maragogipe, itself a mutant of the ancient Typica variety. This is a dry-processed or “natural” version, meaning the beans were dried inside the fruit rather than after the soft fruit residue has been removed, as is the case with wet-processed or “washed” coffees. Roaster Yu Chih Hao is co-founder of Fumi Coffee, a new roaster in Hsinchu, Taiwan specializing in specialty coffee and homemade desserts. Visit https://m.facebook.com/fumicafe035586631/ for more information.

Bottom Line

A multi-layered cup redolent with stone fruit, sweet nuts and pungent florals, animated by a bright, engaging acidity.

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This review originally appeared in the November, 2018 tasting report: "Big-Bean" Coffee Varieties: Novelty, Scarcity, and Atypical Sensory Pleasures

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