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79

Coffee Bean International

Guatemala Atitlan

Roaster Location: Portland, Oregon
Roast Level: Medium-Dark
Agtron: 43/47
Review Date: November 1997
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 5
Body: 4
Flavor: 6

Blind Assessment

A sweet nuttiness dominates here, startling in its clarity. This taste complex, typically a bit player in coffees, takes extravagant control of this one, upstaging everything else. True, a hint of wine made itself heard above the sweetness of the acidity. Perhaps some slightly hard, metallic or tobacco tones flitted across the stage just as the lights went down.

Notes

A sweet nuttiness dominates this coffee, startling in its clarity, with just a hint of wine. Produced by the Tzutuhil Mayan villagers of Santiago Atitlan. Shade-grown; certified organically grown.

Who Should Drink It

Lovers of the subtly sweet; people whose palates are too acute for flavored coffees but who still crave sweet nuance. Possibly the same green coffee went into this package as went into the Allegro Guatemalan Atitlan reviewed earlier. If so, my descriptions of the two coffees reassuringly overlap, but they also are quite different in detail. Possible reasons: 1) The two roast styles developed the acidity of the coffee in somewhat different directions; 2) This version was slightly fresher, emphasizing a more volatile range of aromatics; 3) The two green coffees were from different crops or lots; 4) My palate-synapses-words axis veered into the semantic bushes.

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This review originally appeared in the November, 1997 tasting report: Environment-Friendly Coffees

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