City Bean Coffee
Fazenda Vista Alegre
|Roaster Location:||West Hollywood, California|
|Review Date:||May 1998|
Blind Assessment: For an espresso this coffee is relatively light-roasted, allowing cup characteristics of the green coffee to emerge in the demitasse. The vanilla-nut tones characteristic of many Brazil dry-processed coffees weave pleasantly through the profile, appearing with particular clarity in aroma and aftertaste. Unfortunately, the herby, earthy sharpness of some dry-processed Brazils also surfaces, especially in the aftertaste. All earthy peccadilloes disappear in milk, however. The sharp, earthy tones mute, the nut tones bloom, and the entire profile relaxes and turns sweet yet forceful.
Notes: This relatively light-roasted espresso allow the vanilla-nut tones of Brazil to weave pleasantly through the profile. The herby, earthy sharpness disappears in milk, blooming with nut tones, turning sweet yet forceful. The only single-origin, unblended coffee in the tasting. Dry-processing means the fruit has been removed from the coffee seeds or beans after drying rather than before. The beans absorb sugars from the fruit during drying. The soft sweetness and complexi
Who Should Drink It: According to coffee-world dogma, single-origin coffees don't make good espresso because they lack the complexity and range of a well-composed blend. Nevertheless, this single-origin estate Brazil produced a considerably more complex demitasse than many blends in the tasting, perhaps because it was roasted with some discretion rather than brought to an aggressively dark roast. I was particularly surprised at how well the vanilla-nut flavor complex carried into milk, sweetening but maintaining presence. A good choice for the drip-coffee drinker who finds pungent West-Coast espressos overbearing.
This review originally appeared in the May, 1998 tasting report: West-Coast Espressos