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88

Mr. Espresso

Fazenda Vargem Grande

Roaster Location: Oakland, California
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 47/57
Review Date: May 2002
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 7
Body: 7
Flavor: 8

Blind Assessment

An exquisitely delicate coffee. Meltingly sweet and cocoa-toned in the nose, in the cup gently acidy and crisply fruity with cocoa and pear notes. The finish is pleasingly chocolate-toned, but slightly astringent.

Notes

From the Contini family farm, Fazenda Vargem Grande, at the base of the Mantiqueira Mountain Range, in the classic Brazilian growing region of Mogiana, this coffee is a pulped natural or semi-dry-processed coffee, meaning the skin was removed from the fruit but the fruit pulp was allowed to remain clinging to the beans during drying. The pulped natural method generally produces a low-key but gently bright, often fruity cup. As a green coffee, a 2001 Brazil Cup of Excellence competition winner. Mr. Espresso is a San Francisco Bay area wholesale roaster that slow roasts its coffees using traditional oak-fired roasting machines. Visit www.mrespresso.com or call 510-287-5200 for more info.

Who Should Drink It

This delicately brisk cup with its high-toned complexity should please those who enjoy light but dryly authoritative beverages.

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This review originally appeared in the May, 2002 tasting report: Current Crop Brazils

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