92

Ritual Coffee Roasters

Fazenda Sao Joao Brasil

Location: San Francisco, California

Origin: Coromandel growing region, Minas Gerais State, Brazil

Roast: Medium

Est. Price: NA

Review Date: May 2008

Agtron: 49/61

Aroma: 8

Acidity: 7

Body: 8

Flavor: 8

Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment:

Little difference in rating or description between Ken (92) and co-cupper Ted Stachura (91) in regard to this exceptional Brazil natural. Ted’s assessment: “Big, floral aroma – lavender, fruit and sweet-leaning white wine. Floral and fruit qualities carry into the bright, yet fine, acidity. Complex flavors with more floral upfront, subtle, tart citrus tones and lots of sweetness. Clean finish with lingering floral hints.”

Notes:

Processed by the traditional Brazilian natural or dry method, meaning the beans were dried with both skin and fruit still adhering to the bean. A semi-arid climate prevailing during harvest apparently permits farmer Reginaldo Silvoni to achieve a purity of profile, free of fermented sugars or mildew, despite the relatively lengthy drying period occasioned by drying coffee inside the tough fruit skin. From trees of the Catuai and Mundo Novo varieties. Ritual is a relatively new, frequently celebrated (NY Times, etc.), obsessively quality-oriented roastery and coffeehouse with two locations in San Francisco and a third opening soon in the Napa wine country. Visit www.ritualroasters.com or call 415-641-1024 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Accessible, suave, yet complex breakfast cup. Aficionados may want to sample this coffee as a demonstration of how pure a "natural," dried-in-the-fruit coffee can be when the farmer is obsessive and the climate during harvest is perfect.


This review originally appeared in the May, 2008 tasting report: "S" as in Sexy: New Specialty Offerings from Brazil

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