Blind Assessment: This coffee provides about half the virtue of a great Sumatra: the full body and low-toned profile are here, but the vibrant dimension and complex nuance are missing. The cup is a bit monotoned and heavy rather than rich. Some bittersweet chocolate in the finish.

Notes: Purchased at A&P, ground in sealed 12-ounce foil bag with one-way valve; $10.65/pound. Certified organically grown and fair-traded, meaning farmers have been paid an economically sustainable price for this coffee based on internationally established price guidelines. Coffee from this Sumatra exporter has both impressed and mildly disappointed me over the past three or four years. This particular lot falls somewhere between those extremes. Bucks County Coffee has managed to stay close to its micro-roasting roots throughout its expansion from a small roasting machine in a carriage house to one of the country's largest regional specialty coffee chains. Visit www.buckscountycoffee.com or call 800-844-8790 for more info.

Who Should Drink It: As close as fair-trade coffees get to the traditional round, deep-toned Sumatra cup.