Blind Assessment: A light, bright breath of acidity shimmers inside an amazing bouquet of sweet jasmine and darker, woodier fragrances. The cup soars in a delicious, reeling dizziness of flowers, then immediately relaxes into spicy shadows. Somehow, all of the range and complexity remains precariously, elegantly in balance.

Notes: Many outstanding Ethiopias are currently coming into the country. Perhaps that accounts for the five single-origin Ethiopia coffees in the cupping. They 're all fine, but this one is the finest.

Who Should Drink It: This splendid, versatile coffee should do as well for French press romance as it does for three cups on a bright, workaday morning. Or try it on the porch Saturday afternoon, iced with a little half-and-half.