|Fort Bragg, California
|Sidamo Province, southern Ethiopia
Although co-cupper Christy Thorns (87) felt the Ethiopia citrus and floral notes turned "somewhat passive" under the impact of the roast, she praised the "complex aromatics of ginger, clove and toasted grain" and a spicy finish. Ken also found spice notes also in the aroma (black pepper, clove), but particularly admired the cup for its round mouthfeel and "juicy and sweet but vegetal" character, "a bit like biting into a ripe plum and tasting the skin and the flesh at the same time." What we can take away from all of this is a coffee with less floral and citrus character than a classic wet-processed Ethiopia, but with more spice and tingle.
Sidamo coffee, which can originate from a growing region considerably larger and more diverse than the more geographically limited and more celebrated Yirgacheffe, tends to share the latter's lemon and floral character, though perhaps less explosively. Certified organically grown. One of America's groundbreaking socially and environmentally progressive roasters, Thanksgiving aimed to combine coffee quality with social and environmental responsibility long before the latter preoccupations became fashionable. Visit www.thanksgivingcoffee.com or call 800-648-6491 for more information.
Who Should Drink It
Lovers of the tingle.
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This review originally appeared in the October, 2004 tasting report: Ethiopia and Kenya: The World's Most Distinctive Coffees