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90

Klatch Coffee

Ethiopia Organic Wondo Bonko

Klatch Coffee logo
Roaster Location: San Dimas, California
Coffee Origin: Yirgacheffe growing region, Sidamo Province, southern Ethiopia.
Roast Level: Light
Agtron: 62/91
Review Date: August 2009
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 7
Body: 8
Flavor: 8
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment: A rather wild fruit ferment reads in the aroma as deep-toned cherryish fruit with complicating hints of lemon and aromatic wood. In the cup muted acidity, fullish body, and a complexly savory-sweet fruit character suggesting brandy, cherry, and a slightly salty chocolate. Softens in a long, salty-sweet finish.

Notes: Certified organically grown. Yirgacheffe coffees are grown without chemicals on small family plots interspersed with food plants and fruit trees. Unlike most Yirgacheffe coffees, this one is dry or naturally processed, meaning the beans or seeds were dried inside the coffee fruit rather than dried after the fruit residue was removed, as is the case with wet-processed or "washed" Yirgacheffe coffees. Drying in the fruit turns the typically floral- and lemon-toned Yirgacheffe profile into something deeper, wilder and cherry-brandy-toned. Coffee Klatch is an award-winning small-batch roasting company in the Los Angeles area whose resident barista and trainer, Heather Perry, won both the 2003 and 2007 United States Barista Championships brewing a Coffee Klatch espresso blend. Visit www.klatchroasting.com or call 877-455-2824 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Lovers of the wild side of beverages: single-malt whiskies, untamed grappas, tequilas.

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This review originally appeared in the August, 2009 tasting report: The Devil's in the Details: Bird-Friendly and Shade-Grown Coffees

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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