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94

AOI Coffee

Ethiopia Growers Reserve Gesha Village Gaylee Special Fermentation

Roaster Location: Taichung, Taiwan
Coffee Origin: Bench Maji Zone, southern Ethiopia
Roast Level: Light
Agtron: 65/85
Est. Price: NT $900/227 grams
Review Date: April 2024
Aroma: 9
Body: 9
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 9
With Milk: 8

Blind Assessment

Evaluated as espresso. Resonant, layered berry (blueberry, raspberry), vanilla-toned flowers, papaya, a hint of cinnamon jostle in aroma and in the cup, where aromatics are suspended in a layered structure of complex bitter, sweet, tart and savory tastes. Ken (94) liked this velvety, viscous espresso a bit better than co-taster John DiRuocco (93). The complexity consolidates a bit in three parts milk, where flavor settles in with quiet certainty around a pronounced chocolate.

Notes

Produced from trees of the rare Ethiopia-derived botanical variety Gesha (also Geisha) by Adam and Rachel Overton. Although the Gesha variety originated in Ethiopia, it was “discovered” by the coffee world in 2004 growing in Boquete, Panama. This particular version, however, is the outcome of efforts to commercialize Gesha in the region from which it originally came. It was processed by a proprietary method described as “semi-anaerobic honey.” AOI Coffee is a specialty roaster and cafe in Taiping, Taichung, Taiwan. Visit facebook.com/AOICoffeeRoaster for more information.

Bottom Line

A particularly complex straight espresso with a substantial mouthfeel and shifting, layered structure and aroma.

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This review originally appeared in the April, 2024 tasting report: Single-Origin Espressos: Anaerobics Crash the Party

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