Blind Assessment

Evaluated as espresso. Ken intensely admired this classic washed profile for its round brightness, plum-toned fruit, rose-toned flowers, and chocolaty and cedary balance, rating it 95. For co-taster John DiRuocco, the profile was pleasing but one-dimensional, though he rewarded the smooth mouthfeel, citrusy brightness and clean balance with a 92. Ken found the floral chocolate and cedary base particularly impressive in three parts milk.

Notes

Grown by smallholding farmers in the vicinity of Dame Debaye washing station, from selections of landrace Ethiopian tree varieties, and processed by the traditional washed method. Exported by Sibu Coffee and imported by Sucafina. Speckled Ax is a roaster based in Portland, Maine, specializing in high-quality certified organic and small-lot coffees. The company roasts in a vintage wood-fired Petroncini roaster with the goal of highlighting each coffee’s best attributes. Visit www.speckledax.com for more information.  

Bottom Line

If you trust Ken, this is a classicist’s espresso, transcendent in its purity and poise. Those who prefer surprise and aromatic fireworks may prefer to skip this one.

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