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93

Novo Coffee

Ethiopia Beloya Selection One

Roaster Location: Denver, Colorado
Coffee Origin: Yirgacheffe growing region, Sidamo Province, southern Ethiopia.
Roast Level: Light
Agtron: 63/87
Review Date: November 2007
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 8
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment: Miguel Meza (94) found only purity and ripeness in this opulent coffee; Ken (92) was impressed as well but felt just slightly let down by a limiting simplicity once past the aroma. Miguel Meza: "Vibrant, pure and ripe ... Creamy mouthfeel with vanilla-like floral notes. Full and balanced with a juicy acidity that hints of peach, orange and berries in the long, clean finish." Ken (92) admired the ripe, lush aroma every bit as much as Miguel for its "true dark chocolate, mint, floral and berry" notes, but observed that once past the aroma the cup simplified despite remaining "rich and berry-toned." Miguel and Ken diverged most strongly over the finish, where Ken detected a shadow astringency amid the memories of aromatic complexity where Miguel found only clean flavor.

Notes: A dry-processed or "natural" coffee, meaning the beans were dried inside the fruit rather than after the fruit has been removed, as is the case with wet-processed or "washed" coffees. Biloya Selection One is a specially prepared and selected lot of dry-processed coffee from the Yirgacheffe region air-shipped to the United States to preserve freshness. Founded by Herb, Joseph, and Jake Brodsky in 2002, Novo Coffee is a quality-oriented boutique roasting company with fine coffee, an elegant package, and the slogan "Get Closer" - to coffee, as it turns out. Visit www.novocoffee.com or call 303-295-7678 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: For Miguel, "those who prefer restrained refinement to hedonistic excess."

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This review originally appeared in the November, 2007 tasting report: Berries, Wine and Chocolate (Some of the Time): Dry-Processed Coffees of Ethiopia and Yemen

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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