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96

Klatch Coffee

Esmeralda Leon, Panama Geisha Auction Lot

Klatch Coffee logo
Roaster Location: Los Angeles, California
Coffee Origin: Cañas Verdes, Boquete growing region, western Panama.
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 52/73
Est. Price: $39.95/8 ounces
Review Date: August 2012
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 9
Body: 9
Flavor: 10
Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment

Intense, complex floral notes, from crisp lavender to sweet lilies, with an underlying nut-toned dark chocolate that suggests fine roasted cocoa nibs. Zesty orange citrus. Rich acidity; syrupy mouthfeel. The finish may be a tad too dry for some coffee drinkers but it is rich and deeply flavor-saturated.

Notes

This is an auction lot of Esmeralda Gesha from Hacienda La Esmeralda, the producer that first introduced the celebrated Gesha variety of Arabica to the world. Léon is a 2012 batch of Esmeralda Gesha; in this case a batch is defined as coffee that has been harvested together on the same date. With its generally elongated beans and distinctive floral and crisp, often chocolaty cup, the Gesha variety continues to distinguish itself as one of the world's most unique coffees. This Gesha was processed by the orthodox wet or washed method, in which both skin and fruit flesh are removed from the beans or seeds before they are dried. Klatch Coffee is an award-winning small-batch roasting company in the Los Angeles area whose resident barista and trainer, Heather Perry, won both the 2003 and 2007 United States Barista Championships brewing a Klatch Coffee espresso blend. Visit www.klatchroasting.com or call 877-455-2824 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Those who can handle the price and the intensity: a Gesha on steroids.

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This review originally appeared in the August, 2012 tasting report: Not Your Same Old Panama Coffees

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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