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90

Kean Coffee

El Salvador SHG Honey Bourbon

Roaster Location: Newport Beach, California
Coffee Origin: Ahuachapan Department, El Salvador.
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 49/63
Est. Price: $14.95/12 ounces
Review Date: September 2012
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 7
Body: 8
Flavor: 8
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

Very sweet, deeply pungent. Blackberry, black currant, fir, with a backgrounded dark chocolate in aroma and cup. Pungent though rather muted acidity; lightly syrupy mouthfeel. Richly drying finish.

Notes

In El Salvador the acronym SHG (Strictly High Grown) refers to coffee produced at elevations above 4,000 feet (1,200 meters). This coffee was produced exclusively from trees of the heirloom Bourbon variety of Arabica and processed using the honey method, which means that the outer skin is removed as it is in the wet process, but all or some of the sticky fruit residue is allowed to dry on the bean and later removed by machine along with the parchment skin. With two locations in Southern California's Orange County, Kéan Coffee is an in-house coffee roaster and retailer established by Martin Diedrich of the distinguished Diedrich coffee family. The Kéan slogan, "Martin knows his beans" should be true, considering Martin grew up in Guatemala where his family owned a coffee farm. Visit www.keancoffee.com or call 949-933-9164 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

The honey process deepens and rounds the characteristically tart Bourbon fruit, making this a good choice for aficionados exploring a variation on the great Bourbon profile, and for anyone who prefers rich pungency to bright acidity.

Explore Similar Coffees

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Click here for more information about coffees from El Salvador


This review originally appeared in the September, 2012 tasting report: Honey and Pulped Natural Coffees

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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