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84

The Roasterie

Decaffeinated Kenya AA

Roaster Location: Swiss Water Process
Roast Level: Dark
Agtron: 32/45
Review Date: August 1997
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 6
Body: 6
Flavor: 7

Blind Assessment

A rather distinctive coffee marked by a clear, winy acidity that some would call bright and others sharp. I lean toward bright with rough edges. The acidity is so dominating that I had a difficult time reading the body: I finally concluded medium. And the broken record rasps: intriguing first impression but not much behind it.

Notes

A rather distinctive coffee marked by a clear, winy acidity with rough edges. Decaffeinated by the Swiss Water Process (TM)

Who Should Drink It

Somewhere behind the blurring effect of the decaffeination is a Kenya, perhaps a very fine one. Enough of the powerful, winy Kenya acidity survives to make this a good choice for an aficionado who wants to avoid caffeine but still craves intensity. The decaffeination has left the body intact, but simplified and roughened the impression of the acidity and turned the usually breathtaking depth of the Kenya profile rather one-dimensional.

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This review originally appeared in the August, 1997 tasting report: Decaffeinated Coffees

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