Blind Assessment

Evaluated as espresso. Co-taster John DiRuocco (95) was particularly impressed by the lavish sweetness and fruit of this elaborately anaerobic-processed coffee from Colombian processing innovator Edwin Noreña. John found the well-structured and clean-finishing character sufficient to contain and balance the aromatic fireworks. Ken (92), on the other hand, found the sweetness and fruit a bit too intense and candy-like, though he found compensating value in underlying musk and sandalwood tendencies. Both tasters admired the coffee in three parts milk, which rounded and diluted the intensely sweet fruit.

Notes

Produced by Edwin Noreña of Finca Campo Hermosa, entirely of the Red Bourbon variety of Arabica, and processed by a complex version of carbonic maceration. Whole coffee fruit is soaked in water for four hours, then subject to carbonic maceration for 72 hours with coffee must or mossto (juice from compressed coffee fruit). After removal of skins and pulp (pulping), a second carbonic maceration with mossto, red fruits and wine yeast follows, after which the coffee is sun dried for about 25 days. Imported by Yellow Rooster. Royal Flamingo is a Columbus, Ohio-based specialty coffee roaster. Visit www.royalflamingocoffee.com for more information.

Bottom Line

If you like extravagant fruit grandeur (or if you are a coffee classicist looking for a fling), try this one.

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