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95

Bargain Cafe

Colombia Paraiso 92 Double Anaerobic

Roaster Location: Taitung, Taiwan
Coffee Origin: Piendamó, Cauca Department, Colombia
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 52/74
Est. Price: NT $430/200 grams
Review Date: April 2024
Aroma: 9
Body: 9
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 9
With Milk: 9

Blind Assessment

Evaluated as espresso. Sweet grapefruit and orange blossom notes shimmer inside a deeply expressed chocolate in aroma and cup. Velvety mouthfeel. Ken and co-taster John DiRuocco shared parallel descriptors and the same 95-point enthusiasm for this poised, resonantly finishing espresso. Floral-toned chocolate with a continued grapefruit hint graces three parts milk.

Notes

Produced by Wilton Benitez entirely of the Colombia variety of Arabica, and processed by the anaerobic kōji method, in which the coffee fruit is first sterilized and then fermented in a bio-reactor and inoculated with a selection of Japanese kōji (Aspergillus oryzae). This mold species breaks down starch into simple sugars and is commonly used in the production of soy sauce, miso, sake and shōchū. After this whole-fruit fermentation, skin and pulp are removed and the coffee is subjected to a second anaerobic fermentation. A bean-sealing process follows, carried out through successive impacts of hot and cold water, before the beans are dried by machine for 46 hours. Imported to Taiwan by Pebble Coffee. ​​Bargain Cafe is a specialty coffee roaster in Taitung, Taiwan. Visit www.bargain-cafe.com for more information.  

Bottom Line

Chocolate is deep, nuanced and alive with sweet citrus and flowers in this espresso co-taster John DiRuocco called “elegant, round yet complex.”

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This review originally appeared in the April, 2024 tasting report: Single-Origin Espressos: Anaerobics Crash the Party

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