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94

Equator Coffees & Teas

Colombia Cerro Azul Enano

Top 30 Coffees of 2014 - #28
Roaster Location: San Rafael, California
Coffee Origin: Valle del Cauca growing region, Colombia.
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 60/79
Est. Price: $15.35/12 ounces
Review Date: April 2014
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 9
Body: 9
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

Intensely floral, deeply complex. Rose- and lavender-like flowers, honey, cacao nib, apricot, a delicate hint of cashew in aroma and cup. Gently buoyant, lively acidity, light but very silky mouthfeel. Lavender and cashew in particular persist in a sweet-toned, balanced finish.

Notes

This exceptional coffee was selected as the #28 coffee in the Coffee Review Top 30 Coffees of 2014.  The unpredictability of coffee is confirmed once again with this striking sample, produced from trees that are apparently a spontaneous hybrid involving the famous Gesha (also Geisha) variety of Arabica. The producers Granja la Esperanza brought Gesha plant material from Panama, where this celebrated variety was first rediscovered, to Colombia, where they established it on their farm Cerro Azul. Some of the trees proved not to resemble the trees of the classic Gesha, however; they grew smaller and denser. The producers have given the name “Enano” or dwarf to this apparent hybrid of Gesha. Based on the slim evidence of this single sample of the Enano, the result in the cup is a profile similar to the finest examples of bonafide Gesha, though perhaps a bit less intense in its Geshaness. Founded in 1995, Equator Coffees & Teas is a women-owned wholesale coffee roasting company with web-based retail and two recently-established cafés plus more on the way. Equator focuses on sustainability in coffee sourcing and business practices. Visit www.equatorcoffees.com or call 800-809-7687 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

An extraordinary bargain: offers a persuasive version of the sensory fireworks of a great Gesha at about one-fifth the price.

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This review originally appeared in the April, 2014 tasting report: Colombia on the Rebound

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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