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84

St. Ives Coffee Roasters

Brazilian

Roaster Location: Gainesville, Georgia
Coffee Origin: Cerrado growing region, Minas Gerais State, Brazil
Roast Level: Very Dark
Agtron: 19/24
Review Date: April 2005
Aroma: 7
Body: 7
Flavor: 7
Aftertaste: 6

Blind Assessment

In the aroma intensely but cleanly roasty: pungent cedar with faint fruit undertones: papaya and apricot. In the cup the aggressive charred cedar tones continue to dominate, but the fruit becomes more explicit, rounding and sweetening toward chocolate. Sweet chocolate tones buffer the astringency in the short finish, but in the long the astringency turns rather heavy and tongue-coating.

Notes

From the Cerrado region, a newer growing region distinguished by its dry, sunny fruiting and harvest season. St. Ives is a quality oriented wholesale/retail specialty roaster located in northeastern Georgia whose motto is "The Closest You Can Get to the Coffee Tree." Judging from this sample, St. Ives roasts its single-origin coffees very, very dark, to the far edge (far beyond Starbucks and Peet?s) of where coffee still can be called roasted rather than burned. Visit www.stivescoffe.com or call 800-767-5282 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Those who want a little Brazil in their French roast.

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This review originally appeared in the April, 2005 tasting report: Soft and Sweet: Brazil Specialty Coffees

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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