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90

Ecco Caffe

Brazil Fazenda Cachoeira de Gramma Mogiana

Roaster Location: Santa Rosa, California
Coffee Origin: Mogiana growing region, Sao Paulo State, south-central Brazil.
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 51/58
Review Date: May 2008
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 7
Body: 8
Flavor: 8
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

Ken (91) was more attracted to this coffee's sweet, deeply low-toned, big-bodied character than was co-cupper Ted Stachura (89), who found the dominant nut and bittersweet chocolate character marked by a hint of woodiness. But both cuppers describe a deep, dark-chocolaty, nutty coffee with a balancing hint of citrus and a rich if slightly heavy finish.

Notes

Processed by the traditional Brazilian natural or dry method, meaning the coffee was dried with both skin and fruit still adhering to the bean, though here the coffee fruit was dried on raised screen beds to allow for air to circulate under and through the drying coffee rather than spread on the usual patios. This coffee is Utz Certified, meaning it fulfills social, environmental and traceability standards embodied in the Utz Certified Code of Conduct. Bourbon is a prestigious, heirloom variety of Coffea Arabica; this particular strain has a yellow skin. Fazenda Cachoeria da Gramma is an impressively ecologically and socially advanced farm on the border between the classic Brazilian growing regions of Mogiana and Sul de Minas. Ecco Caffe is a small, genuinely artisan specialty roaster that specializes in relatively light-roasted, "Northern Italian Style" espressos and select single-origin coffees. Visit www.eccocaffe.com or call 707-525-9309 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Those who prefer depth and dry, nutty chocolate to fruit, flowers and brightness.

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This review originally appeared in the May, 2008 tasting report: "S" as in Sexy: New Specialty Offerings from Brazil

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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