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93

CafeTaster

2012 Esmeralda Special Natural Panama

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Roaster Location: I-Lan City, Taiwan
Coffee Origin: Boquete growing region, western Panama
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 58/81
Est. Price: NTD $3000/8 ounces
Review Date: August 2012
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 10
Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment

Intense, lyric, complex floral character – tea rose, lily, lavender, honey – anchored by a crisp, cocoa-toned chocolate. Sweet-toned, floral acidity; lightly syrupy mouthfeel. Dry but rich, flavor-saturated finish.

Notes

This is an auction lot of Esmeralda Gesha from Hacienda La Esmeralda, the producer that first introduced the celebrated Gesha variety of Arabica to the world. With its generally elongated beans and distinctive floral and crisp, often chocolaty cup, the Gesha variety continues to distinguish itself as one of the world's most unique coffees. This is a dry-processed or "natural" version, meaning the beans were dried inside the fruit rather than after the fruit has been removed, as is the case with wet-processed or "washed" coffees. CaféTaster is an aficionado nano-roaster of the style increasingly characteristic of East Asia countries like Taiwan and Korea, roasting very high-end coffees in very small volumes for a tiny clientele of passionate coffee enthusiasts, in the process selling coffee education as much as coffee itself. For more information, visit www.facebook.com/cafetaster or email roaster Jerry Huang at [email protected]

Who Should Drink It

Affluent aficionados interested in sampling a version of the great Gesha profile that foregrounds with almost disconcerting intensity its famous floral and cocoa tendencies.

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This review originally appeared in the August, 2012 tasting report: Not Your Same Old Panama Coffees

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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