Complex, authoritative espresso. Ken (92) found dark chocolate and fresh leather notes in the aroma, co-taster Heather Perry (89) nut. Both remarked on an attractive bittersweet citrus character in the cup, which Heather nicely characterized as "blood orange." Ken was particularly taken by the citrusy chocolate finish. But perhaps this coffee's most remarkable performance was in milk, where the crisp fruit bloomed with round, chocolate- and berry-toned assurance.
By Kenneth Davids
June 6th, 2008
Fine straight-shot espresso. Rich in the aroma with a delicately pungent note Ken (91) called cedar and co-taster Heather Perry (90) spice. In the small cup dense and syrupy in mouthfeel with dark chocolate and continued spice and orangey cedar notes. Long, resonantly flavor-saturated finish. Loses some power and complexity, though it remains pleasantly drinkable and the orangey/spicy chocolate persists.
Flowers and tropical fruit in the sweet-toned aroma. For co-taster Heather Perry (88), "Floral notes turned to orange, berry, spice and cocoa, complex yet balanced and sweet" in the small cup. Ken (91) agreed. However, Heather found the shot in milk "very rough" whereas Ken liked it: "sweet, balanced, with a banana-toned chocolate."
Both Ken (91) and co-taster Heather Perry remarked on a delicate, slightly pungent quality in both aroma and small cup that that Heather associated with herb and orange peel and Ken with cedar and orange. Medium-bodied, with a flavor-saturated finish. In milk both Heather and Ken found balance, with continued orange-toned and, for Ken, chocolaty nuance.
Both Ken (90) co-taster Heather Perry (89) found this sample pleasingly and crisply fruity; "Meyer lemon" notes dominated for Heather, spicy floral and orange for Ken. Despite a tendency to express itself in floral and fruit notes, the shot maintained balance throughout and showed well in milk, with attractive hints of chocolate and (for Ken) spicy, rose-toned flowers.
A simple, rich, roast-influenced espresso that particularly came into its own in milk. In the small cup deep, roundly dark-chocolate-toned aroma, full body, gently pungent flavor and finish with roast-influenced notes that co-taster Heather Perry (88) associated with herbs (particularly thyme) and Ken (91) with cedar, night flowers and black cherry. Heather was particularly impressed by this coffee's performance in milk, where she found the herbal character she admired persisted "beautifully."
Both Ken (89) and co-taster Heather Perry (87) admired the aroma: "creamy berry" for Heather, "bananaish fruit with floral top notes" for Ken. But for both the mouthfeel was a bit lean in the small cup and the flavor a bit sharp, though Ken admired the continued floral notes. For both tasters the profile smoothed in the long finish, with a sweet flavor persistence that suggested chocolate for Ken, "blackberry pie" for Heather. Heather found it lost sweetness in milk but Ken was pleased, finding it crisp with "true chocolate" notes.
Ken (88) showed more enthusiasm for the small cup than co-taster Heather Perry (87), finding the aroma simple but "high-toned and elegant," the body leanish but smooth, the flavor pungently smoky (for Heather pleasantly tobacco notes in the aroma turned "ashy" in the cup), the finish sweet and long. Both found the presence in milk simple but "balanced and sweet" (Heather).
Mouthfeel and presence trumped aromatics. Both co-taster Heather Perry (87) and Ken (87) admired smooth, lightly syrupy mouthfeel in the small cup and solid balance in milk. Aromatics were relatively subdued and simple, however: "spicy" with "light lemon undertones" for Heather, "smoky chocolate" with floral hints for Ken (87).
A light-roasted coffee rather too bright and lean-bodied to fulfill conventional expectations for espresso, though shimmeringly floral and citrusy throughout the profile. "Very clean and floral in the aroma" for co-taster Heather Perry (87). In the small cup refreshingly if rather sharply citrus, with "delicate butter and floral notes" (Ken, 87) that carry into an impressive, sweetly dry finish. The delicate floral and citrus profile fades in milk, however, retaining a tart sweetness but quite lean in mouthfeel.