Blind Assessment: Rich, intense, sweetly and pungently citrusy. Melon, grapefruit, sandalwood, musk, caramel in aroma and cup. The acidity is round and pungently tart; the mouthfeel smooth and lightly syrupy. Sweet-toned, flavor-saturated finish.

Notes: Puna is the easternmost district of the Big Island of Hawaii, literally on the other side of the island from the far more famous Kona district. From a three-acre farm in Puna owned and operated by Kelleigh Stewart and Brandon von Damitz, who did just about everything related to this coffee, from pruning to roasting. This sample consists entirely of peaberries, a kind of bean that results when the coffee fruit develops only a single, oval bean rather than the usual pair of flat-sided beans. Peaberries produce a somewhat different (often better) cup than normal beans from the same crop, from which they may or may not be separated during grading. Visit www.bigislandcoffeeroasters.com or call 808-968-6228 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: This would be a striking and unusual coffee from anywhere in the world, but it is a particular surprise coming from Hawaii, where sweetness and balance are the positive norm rather than the startling aromatic originality of this Puna peaberry.